California's Most Underrated Winery

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of going to the gold rush town of Murphy's, California, with a friend. We intended to picnic on the grounds of the area's most famous winery, Ironstone, but were precluded by big signs proclaiming "NO OUTSIDE FOOD PERMITTED." So much for hospitality. Ironstone's current yield was much less appealing than those I have tried off the supermarket shelves -- which is unsual in itself.

The wineries of Calaveras County were subpar, with one exception: Malvadino. Their Com e Bella label has superb Zinfandel's that features Lodi grapes along with their own, and their "everyday" label was anything but. 1999 and 2000 were very good years to them. Their Torchio Zinfandel cuvee was rich and complex. The real surprise, however, was their 2000 Mission wine, which is made from the grape that was used by Junipero Serra and his progeny as they brought Western civilization to California. While not having the rich bouquet or the textured dark berry flavors of either a Zin or a Syrah, it is easily one of the better light wines I have ever had. Hopefully other winemakers will push this grape to the crowd drawn to Chenin Blanc and Pinot Grigio. And it was a steal at $6 per bottle. I wish I had bought a case.

Thank you to Ken Malvini for allowing us to cork a bottle along with our picnic lunch outside his tasting room. It's nice to know that the "little guy" still values its customers in a manner that seems to be lost on Disneyfied vineyards like Ironstone.